Conscious Choice: Cool Summer Soups

July 1998 | Cooking with the Seasons

Cool Summer Soups

by Colette Christian

I know that the objective of summer cooking is that we spend as little time in the kitchen as possible. We all want to be outdoors in the garden or grilling. But on a less-than-perfect summer day or in the evening, when mosquitoes drive you back indoors, try some summer soup making, and add elegance to summer meals.

Chilled soups are often overlooked by home chefs. Yet, a cold soup usually takes less time to prep then a hot one. There is usually more time spent at the cutting board than at the stove. There are classic chilled soups and there are the more nouvelle cold soups. At work, I’m usually called upon to create both kinds. I love making soups. Hot or cold, creating soup is a good test of a cook’s skill and artistry. Developing a repertoire of seasonal soups makes menu planning easy, especially when you find yourself agonizing over what to serve and how to impress your boss or in-laws.

Vichyssoise is a popular choice for highbrow summer entertaining. This classic soup was created by Chef Louis Diat at the Ritz-Carlton hotel in New York during the 1920s. He added cream to leek and potato soup and chilled it. Garnished with freshly chopped chives, this soup remains a timeless classic that is always popular.

Gazpacho is another favorite, and a great way to use up excess tomatoes and bell peppers. Gazpacho originated in the hot climate of southern Spain. Gazpacho is better made the day before you plan to serve it. You don’t have to be strict when making gazpacho. A few extra tomatoes or peppers make little difference in the overall soup. Ladle this soup into colorful bowls and garnish with fresh baked croutons for a festive presentation.

Chilled fruit soups are delicious as well as a great way to use up an abundance of overripe fruit. They are popular in eastern European and Scandinavian cuisine. Fruit soups are a refreshing start to summer meals or even as as healthful dessert.

Summer soup rules:
1. Chilled soups benefit from an overnight chill.
2. Chilling affects both the consistency and flavor of a soup. A chilled soup should never be too thin. It should be almost too thick to pour.
3. Taste repeatedly as the soup cools. You may have to add more seasoning after it sits overnight. Allow salt to dissolve for a few minutes before tasting again.
4. A blender or an immersion blender are helpful when making any kind of pureed soup.

Vegetarian Vichyssoise
Vegetable stock replaces chicken stock in this version. Serves six and must be chilled for at least eight hours.
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
4 leeks, white part only, thinly sliced
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 pound peeled russet potatoes
4 cups vegetable stock
2 cups milk
2 cups half and half
white pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
Garnish: minced fresh chives.

1. Melt the butter over medium heat in a heavy saucepan. Add the leeks and onions and sauté for about five minutes. Cook until soft but not brown. Sprinkle with the teaspoon of salt.
2. Add the potatoes and stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until the potatoes are very tender, about 30 minutes.
3. Puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Work the soup through a strainer to remove any fibers from the leeks.
4. Return the soup to the pot. Add the milk and cream. Bring to a light simmer and remove from heat. Add the heavy cream and adjust the seasonings. Chill for at least eight hours.
5. Garnish with freshly chopped chives before serving.

Gazpacho
Serves 4.
4 cups peeled chopped tomatoes
1 cup tomato or vegetable juice
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 green pepper, finely chopped
1 jalapeno, finely chopped
2 cloves minced garlic
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1/4 cup fresh squeezed lime juice
1/2 teaspoon cumin
salt and fresh ground black pepper
Garnish: small croutons (see below)

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine tomatoes, tomato or vegetable juice, onion, cucumber, green pepper, jalapeno, garlic, cilantro, lime juice and seasonings. Cover and chill for at least four hours.
2. Ladle soup into chilled bowls.
3. Garnish with croutons.

Croutons
I am always saving bread for croutons. I cut it into cubes and store in them in freezer bags. Beware: it doesn’t take long for the freezer to become overrun with countless small bags of cubed bread!
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
3-4 cups cubed bread (1 bag)
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic minced
salt

1. Melt butter over medium heat in a small saucepan, add olive oil and garlic and remove from heat.
2. Place bread cubes in a large bowl and toss with the butter-olive oil mixture. Sprinkle with salt.
3. Place on a cookie sheet and bake for 8-10 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally so that the croutons brown evenly. Croutons should be light golden brown. Store extra croutons in an airtight container.

Iced Cucumber Soup with Yogurt and Dill
Serves four
1 pound cucumbers, peeled, seeded and chopped
4 scallions, chopped
1 cup cold vegetable stock
2 cups plain yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
juice of 1 lemon
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh dill (you can substitute mint if you don’t like dill)
salt and pepper

1. Put the cucumbers and scallions in the food processor or blender. Add the cold vegetable stock and puree until smooth. Add the yogurt, sour cream and lemon juice and puree briefly to blend. Transfer to a bowl and add dill and salt and pepper to taste. Chill for at least 2 hours.
2. Serve in chilled bowls and garnish with a sprig of fresh dill.

Summer Melon Soup with Champagne
Serves four
2 medium cantaloupes
1/2 honeydew
grated zest of 1 orange
1/4 cup honey
1 split of champagne
Garnish: fresh mint

1. Skin, seed and rough chop melons. Place in a large bowl. Add orange zest, honey and champagne. Chill the fruit and champagne for a few hours to macerate the flavors.
2. Puree in a blender or food processor.
3. Serve in chilled cups (or hollowed out melon halves!) and garnish with a mint sprig.

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