Conscious Choice: Vegging Out in Jamaica

March 2000

Vegging Out in Jamaica

by Marla Rose

Jamaicans love to cook. Granted, this is a sweeping generalization; probably somewhere, in a remote corner of the island, there exists someone who absolutely and without mitigation dislikes cooking. This person, however, is quite an anomaly judging by what I saw while on vacation in Negril. Everyone I talked to about food (and this occurred frequently as the Jamaicans we met were without exception passionate about food) had a treasure trove of mental recipes acquired from mothers, fathers, and grandparents in the kitchen. The taste of food made in the traditional Rastafarian manner, which is usually vegan and is known as "I-tal," is earthy and sensuous.

"The way you know that ackee [pronounced ah-kee, it is a tropical fruit that cooks like a vegetable and resembles scrambled eggs] is ready to be eaten is that it’s open and the juice has dripped out," said Dean, a local bartender who cooked a meal for us. He offered as further instruction that when fully ripe, ackee rather looks like a woman’s genitalia. This was said without a hint of embarrassment.

From the taxi driver who took us through drizzly, lush mountains as he spirited us to the airport in Montego Bay on our last day, I learned that when roasting breadfruit over a flame, you cook it until it’s blackened all around and steam is rising from the heart, which you then cut out.

I-tal, the True Food of the Rastafari

Before I go much farther, a little background is in order. I-tal, which natives describe as a combination of the words "vital" and "natural", is the true food of the Rastafari and springs readily from the pursuit of simplicity and vital good health that are cornerstones of their religious movement. Inherent in the practice of Rastafarianism is a strong drive to cultivate and support things natural and unspoiled; nowhere is this observation of purity more clearly reflected than in native cooking. There is a shunning of food that is made with preservatives, chemicals, or processing; some Rastafari take this avoidance of the synthetic so seriously that their kitchens are constructed only with natural materials, and food is served only in bowls that have come from the earth, like gourds or wood. I-tal food that has been created with adherence to accepted Rastafarian orthodoxy also means that salt has not been added, in keeping with the belief that what we put in our bodies should be pure and unrefined. Additionally, although the consumption of fish doesn’t necessarily contradict I-tal doctrine, there are many Rastafarians who don’t consume any flesh or other products of an animal origin.

Our Assignment: Relax and Eat

So there we were, with our vacation assignment firmly in mind: we were to spend a week in Jamaica, getting some much needed relaxation and enjoying traditional Rastafarian cuisine. We were successful in accomplishing both aspects of this mission.

The first part, relaxation, was easy to attain because it is so hot in Jamaica, and the sound of the ocean combined with the swaying, sweet-smelling tropical flora had such a mollifying effect on us that reclining whenever possible, whether on a lounge chair, inflatable raft or hammock, seemed utterly natural and, frequently, necessary. This isn’t to imply that Negril is dull. It isn’t: for one thing, music, especially reggae, is ubiquitous. Secondly, Jamaicans have a well-deserved reputation for driving like sociopaths, rounding curves at sound barrier-breaking speeds and tooting the horn at anyone in their field of vision. It’s difficult to avoid being on the receiving end of a honk if you are wandering around Negril, because there aren’t really any sidewalks and what qualifies as a street is really just about a foot wider than a single American lane. This road is intended for two lanes of traffic as well as bike and pedestrian traffic.

A third factor that helps keep travelers alert and awake is the near-constant solicitation from locals. Everything — from ganja (marijuana) to hair braiding to para-sailing — is tirelessly hawked to the visitor, whether she’s dodging oncoming traffic on the street or trying to nap on the beach. In all honesty, this is one of the more unpleasant aspects of a sojourn in Jamaica, though most hustlers, even the vigorous ones, respond well to the simple statement, "No, thank you." If it doesn’t do the trick, claiming that you have no money will almost certainly quell even the most dogged vendor.

Vegan Dining in Negril

As far as the food, let me just say that in seven days, every single meal except one was absolutely delicious. In general, I-tal food is made with the freshest ingredients possible, sometimes right off a tree as you wait, so there is often a rather long delay involved that many Westerners may not be accustomed to. Most things in Jamaica occur at a slower pace than a lot of visitors are used to (attribute it to ganja, the presence of which can be detected virtually everywhere in Negril, so be prepared to have a continuous "contact high" even if you don’t personally indulge). Try to be patient. Your wait will be richly rewarded.

I-tal food is extremely easy to find in Negril, and, as in the U.S., it is often served in restaurants that aren’t strictly vegetarian. All one really has to do is walk along the beach or along the main road to find a dazzling array of eateries to choose from. There is not as much of a variety of produce as the typical American enjoys; the Jamaican staples calaloo (a leafy green like spinach), cabbage, carrots, and potatoes are the primary vegetables, and the grains are mostly limited to rice or pasta, but for some reason, the food didn’t get boring. Perhaps this was because every chef put his or her own stamp on it. Meals averaged about $20 for two people. Here is a description of what we enjoyed during our stay in Negril:

Isadora’s

For our first meal we stopped in to have lunch with some friends of our friend Isadora Tavens, a Chicagoan who lives in Jamaica six months of the year. Isadora’s friends maintain her four acres of beautiful woodlands when she’s not there. It’s a secluded, rustic area about two miles south of the Negril lighthouse. There are birds overhead as well as butterflies flitting around lush plants. Isadora has a simple, unfussy guest cottage available for those interested in a truly "back-to-nature" vacation.

On the campsite, there’s a modest kitchen where Isadora’s friends prepare meals, either with a gas stove or over an open fire; when we visited, they hadn’t enough money to buy gas, so our lunch was made campfire style, which enhanced the feeling that we were experiencing authentic Jamaican food. Val, the main cook, made us a refreshing juice of cucumber, orange, sugar, and water. It was very cooling and not too sweet, perfect after the long trip there. For the meal, he chopped a variety of vegetables — calaloo, cabbage, onions, carrots and scotch bonnet peppers — and he cooked them in a skillet with coconut milk. The mingling flavor of the vegetables was the central focus of the dish, and, in keeping with culinary traditions of I-tal, it was not overcooked; the vegetables retained their wonderful vitality and crispness. As is traditional with vegetarian food in Jamaica, this dish was accompanied by rice.

Afterward we listened as they drummed and sang Rastafarian songs. It was a unique, magical, and unforgettable time. Anyone interested in pursuing a "real" Jamaican experience (admittedly without the luxury of many modern conveniences) can call Isadora at her year-round voice mail: 773-509-8586. Isadora’s guest cottage rents for $25 per night, and inexpensive vegan food will be available.

Royal Kitchen

We ate several times at Royal Kitchen Vegetarian Center, which was located a short distance from our hotel. There we enjoyed generous plates of calaloo, cabbage, carrots, and potatoes, which were lightly cooked with rosemary. There was a variety of fresh juices available; one that we particularly enjoyed was soursop, a common juice in Jamaica, which tastes like a thick blend of pineapple and peach juice.

Gloria’s Sunset

One of my favorite meals was a dinner at Gloria’s Sunset, located along the southern part of the beach but facing the main road. We told our cab driver that we were looking for I-tal food, and Gloria’s was where we ended up. We were given breadfruit (a vegetable similar in taste to a potato but starchier and creamier), sautéed with carrots and coconut milk, served with a side of mixed vegetables as well as rice and beans.

Our meal was amazingly fresh, nourishing, and perfectly spiced. The breadfruit in particular had a wonderful soft texture and substance, and the coconut milk added a delicate warmth and richness to the dish. Unlike many of the places we visited which had only been open for a few months or less, Gloria’s Sunset has been in business for about twenty years.

King Dango Man

Just down the road was another I-tal discovery, King Dango Man Restaurant. We stopped in one day for breakfast and ended up taking a forty-five-minute tour of a tucked-away corner of Negril by the owner, King Dango Man himself, a tall Rastafarian who refers to himself in the third person. For breakfast, we sat on a narrow wooden bench and had plantain porridge with coconut milk. It was a sweet, comforting concoction that we thoroughly enjoyed.

Miss Brown’s Health Restaurant

The first day we explored Negril’s famous beach, we made another discovery. There are many huts/merchants/restaurants lining the beach, and we were almost literally pulled into one spot by two Jamaican women who baited us with promises of singular vegetarian fare. We weren’t disappointed. At Miss Brown’s Health Restaurant, on the southern end of the beach, we had thick pasta noodles sautéed with calaloo, tomatoes, and onions, accompanied by slices of fresh bread.

The dish was very succulent and juicy, and as we sat there, Miss Brown’s two adult daughters braided my hair, which, despite my initial reluctance, did make the hot weather more bearable.

As we dined, the occasional rooster or chicken strolled by, safe among I-tal diners. By the way, hallucinogenic mushrooms are legal in Jamaica and you will often see items like mushroom tea or mushroom cakes on the menu. Unless you want to start communing with Alice in Wonderland, you may want to ask whether the fungi you are about to order have magical properties. Miss Brown’s is one such establishment that carries this variety.

Just Natural

We got into the habit of brunching at a beautiful little space called Just Natural, which was very close to our hotel. Although they emphasized fish and seafood dishes, they also had a few great vegetarian selections. To begin the day we’d order their wonderfully abundant fruit plate (papaya, banana, grapefruit, which is sweeter than the American variety), pineapple, passion fruit, orange, and mango). When we ordered sides of home fries, calaloo, and sweet plantains to go with our fruit, we wouldn’t have to eat again until dinner.

The space is lovely and comfortable, aided by the large shade umbrellas, and the staff is very friendly. The fruit, like all that we tried in Jamaica, was incredibly ripe, juicy, and fresh. The sides we ordered perfectly rounded out the meal, and the plantains in particular were noteworthy.

I-tal Vital

This is one of Negril’s most famous vegetarian restaurants but one of the more difficult to find. Isadora recommended it and everyone we talked to had heard of it, but no one knew how to find it. It’s on the beach, but it’s set back a bit, with only a tiny sign marking its presence. We finally found it on our second attempt, although it took the earnest assistance of no fewer than three locals, one of whom was a cab driver. (Most places can easily be found by name only, since there are no addresses.)

The owner of I-tal Vital, a gentle Rastafarian with a gray beard and an open, warm face, has been running the restaurant since the early 1970s; he served us lunch in gourds with spoons that were actually small triangular pieces of gourd-shell with rounded edges. The food was similar to the traditional I-tal food we’d enjoyed all week — rice and beans with calaloo, cabbage, potatoes, and carrots — but there was an extra element, something indefinable, that made it unique. It could have been the fresh herbs and spices, or the simple fact that it was served to us in a gourd. Whatever it was, the food was wondrous and I highly recommend this beachside restaurant.

Rick’s Cafe

Perched right alongside the bay atop spectacular thirty-foot cliffs, Rick’s Cafe has a breathtaking view and is worth visiting for this reason only. Rick’s is popular among tourists and the food definitely has an American spin to it. Vegetarian fare is limited to two dishes, veggie pizza or spaghetti with sautéed vegetables — both pretty bland and overpriced. Still, Rick’s has an energetic environment, with soca music, a sort of speeded-up calypso, that sets a lively tone for brave souls to dive off the cliffs into the water below while camera-happy tourists snap pictures.

For dinner, we had uninspired dishes of pasta topped by a few overcooked vegetables, and a couple of sweet but refreshing margaritas. It was almost $55 for our lackluster meal, so I’d recommend that you eat elsewhere and stop at Rick’s Cafe for drinks and entertainment.

Pirate’s Cave

I’d have to say that of all our meals, my favorite was quintessentially Jamaican. We stopped in several times to a bar near our hotel called Pirate’s Cave. The bartender, Dean, is a very personable, charming man, and we made it a habit to stop in and chat.

One night, the topic of ackee, which is the national dish, came up. We told Dean that we hadn’t tried it yet because it is traditionally served with salt fish, so we assumed it was not vegetarian. Dean was aghast that we hadn’t yet experienced ackee, and he insisted that we try it before we left Jamaica. He offered to make it for us and we happily acquiesced. We gave him some money — about $15 in Jamaican currency — to buy the items he’d need and we left.

The next day when we showed up for lunch, he presented us with beautiful plates of steaming, colorful food: ackee cooked with green peppers, garlic, and onions; yellow sweet potatoes; and dumplins (same as dumplings), made with flour, water, and a bit of salt. It was a special meal. My favorite part was the ackee, which was every bit as interesting and delicious as the locals claimed; the texture is soft and firm at the same time, and there is a mildly buttery taste to it. Especially when eaten with the other, stronger flavors of the peppers and onions, the delicate but still distinctive flavor of ackee is emphasized.

There were German tourists sitting around the bar when we were eating, and they were so enthusiastic about the plate Dean let them sample that they too made arrangements with him to come back the following day and eat Dean’s special dish for lunch.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time at the Pirate’s Cave with Dean and the other barflies because the conversation was always so vibrant and the people were so amiable and open-hearted. I would definitely recommend stopping in to see the friendly man behind the bar and ask him to whip up an I-tal meal. Incidentally, Pirate’s Cave typically serves food during the tourist season. The kitchen was shut down during our visit, so Dean had to prepare our meals in his boss’s house across the street.

Jamaican Jerk Vegetable Skewers

Jamaica is a vegan’s paradise. There is much there to enjoy: the gorgeous sunsets, the warm ocean, the relaxing pace. Until you visit Jamaica yourself, here’s a recipe to get you in the mood:

Vegetables
2 green or red bell peppers, seeded and cut into large pieces
10 white mushrooms
10 broccoli florets
1 small eggplant, cut into cubes (or any grillable variety of your choice)

Thread the veggies onto four barbecue skewers, alternating them until they are all used. Place the skewers in a narrow baking pan.

Jerk Sauce
6-8 scallions, chopped
1 small onion, chopped coarse
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
1 tbsp. dried thyme
3/4 tsp. ground allspice
1-2 Scotch bonnet or jalapeño peppers, seeded and minced (be careful to wash hands thoroughly afterward)
1-3 cloves garlic, chopped
3/4 cup tamari
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup canola oil
1/4 cup brown sugar

Put all the marinade ingredients in a food processor and process for ten to fifteen seconds. Pour the marinade over the vegetables, and refrigerate overnight, or at least for four hours. Turn occasionally to distribute sauce.

Start your grills!

Place the skewers on the grill and cook four to five minutes on each side, or until the vegetables have softened. Yummy! Serve with rice or another grain side dish.

A longer version of this article is on the VeganStreet web site.

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