October 2001 | Conscious Dining
Favorite Spots
by Lauren Malloy
Well, it’s time for me to say farewell. I hoped you’ve enjoyed reading about my dining experiences as much as I’ve enjoyed writing about them.
Before I go, I’d like to let you in on a few of my personal favorites. While too small to warrant a full dining review, they certainly deserve a mention for their particular specialties.
La Condesa
For the past two years at La Condesa, a Mexican spot indistinguishable from the rest of the many that blanket Ashland Avenue in the East Village neighborhood, a lone gringo has reappeared on at least a weekly basis to sit among the rest of the diners enjoying their fill of authentic Mexican cooking. "There’s no Tex-Mex here," explained the manager, when I asked him what he thought separated his restaurant from the others. What I’ve enjoyed the most about this place are the handmade corn tortillas, which, bar none, are the best I’ve tasted in Chicago. Similar to Indian naan bread in texture, it’s hard to believe those moist flatbreads share the same name as the chewy, hard-edged corn tortillas usually dished up at Mexican restaurants. The option to dip them into some of the best refried beans in town is the real reason I order anything else on the menu. I recommend the huevos mexicanos, or the shrimp in a gajillo sauce. If you’re a really brave soul, try ordering one of the odd-looking dishes Mexicans seem to favor, such as the giant soup with various seafood shells sticking out of it.
La Condesa, 2230 S. Ashland Ave., Chicago.
Sultan Market
Shadli Ramli, owner of a small corner market on North Avenue just west of Damen, has taken the slow approach to expanding his store into a restaurant of sorts. After first perfecting the falafel sandwich, which he binds together with a slather of hummus and a tumble of Jerusalem salad, he slowly added tabbouleh and a few other Middle Eastern selections to his short, but growing, menu. My personal favorite is the rice and lentil dish topped by a thick layer of tabbouleh. As a takeout option it can’t be beat — caramelized onions spun with chewy rice and lentils, cooled by the lemony fresh taste of salad — especially for the two or three bucks it costs. Recently, Ramli and his mother have expanded their home-style operation to include more indoor dining space and an outdoor patio, along with a salad bar that includes such homemade dressings as miso-ginger and tofu-basil. The whole menu is vegetarian-friendly and very reasonable.
Coco Pazzo Café
I always look forward to having a doctor’s appointment at Northwestern Hospital, not because I love modern medicine, but because that means I’ll have an excuse to stop for lunch at Coco Pazzo Café. I always try to order something other than the antipasto spread to start my meal, but inevitably, I can’t manage to order anything else once I’ve checked out the display table of vegetables, olives, and beans. The spread isn’t even listed on the menu, even though it is always on special, but those in the know won’t fail to order this cornucopia of fresh grilled vegetables for only $5.00 a plate. I’m already plenty satisfied by the time I finish this starter, and I’m transported into an even deeper state of bliss after I indulge in one of the best cappuccinos in town. It also doesn’t hurt to get pampered by a bunch of attentive, black-and-white-clad service professionals always ready to make your experience special.
Coco Pazzo Café, 636 N. St. Clair Street, Chicago.
And as a reminder, here are some of my favorites in their class from past "Conscious Dining" reviews:
Best deep-dish pizza: Pizano’s, 864 N. State Street, Chicago.
Best Italian-style pizza: Coco Pazzo Restaurant, 300 W. Hubbard, Chicago.
Best Middle-Eastern: Maza’s, 2748 N. Lincoln Avenue, Chicago.
Best healthy bar food: The Player’s Club, 2500 N. Ashland Avenue, Chicago.
Best antipasti: Topo Gigio, 1516 N. Wells Street, Chicago.
Best upscale Mexican: Ixcapuzalco, 2919 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago.
Best selection of salads: Pompei Bakery, 2955 N. Sheffield Avenue, Chicago.
Best mussels on a cast-iron skillet: Mod, 1520 W. North Avenue, Chicago.
Best seasonal cuisine: Blackbird, 619 W. Randolph Street, Chicago.
Best uppudam (Indian pancakes): Mysore Woodlands, 2548 W. Devon, Chicago.
Best pad thai: Always Thai, 1825 W. Irving Park, Chicago.
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