Conscious Choice: Walk on the Wild Side

April 2003 | Cooking with the Seasons

Walk on the Wild Side

by Terra Brockman

The fields and hills are a table constantly spread. — Henry David Thoreau

If ever there were an example of the journey being as wonderful as the destination, it would be in the foraging of wild plants. Wandering the woods for an eruption of morels half-hidden beneath last fall’s leaves or searching for the first wild greens along a country road is as delightful as the foods themselves.

Lore about edible plants was handed down from one generation to the next for thousands of years. It was not until the ascent of agribusiness and the rampant urbanization of the post-WWII era that the ancient knowledge suddenly evaporated. Always popular in Europe, wild plants are slowly coming into the mainstream in the United States. Dandelion greens, chickweed, nettles, lamb’s quarters, and amaranth greens are making their way into more and more farmer’s markets and fine restaurants. If you find them — in the field or in the market — give them a try. If they are hard to come by, you can substitute another spring green — spinach, in any of the recipes below.

Dandelion Greens

Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale) have been recognized as beneficial to health ever since the ancient Romans began cultivating them for their diuretic properties. The "dent de lion" (teeth of the lion) refers to the sharply indented leaves, which have been used in salads since the dawn of recorded history. You can also cook dandelion greens like spinach and use them in any recipe that calls for spinach. They are rich in minerals and in vitamins C and A.

Warm Dandelion Greens Salad

3/4 pound dandelion leaves

2 Tablespoons olive oil

1 Tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly ground pepper to taste

4 ounces smoked bacon

1 slice French or Italian bread, cubed

2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 hard boiled egg, crumbled

1. Wash the greens and tear into small pieces. Put into a warmed salad bowl with the oil and vinegar. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss lightly.

2. Fry bacon until half cooked. Add bread cubes and fry until cubes are golden and the bacon is completely cooked. Tip contents of the pan (fat and all if you want to be completely French about it) onto the greens. Toss quickly.

3. Put the vinegar into the pan and heat rapidly. When it is bubbling fiercely, pour onto the greens and toss. Serve immediately with a sprinkling of the crumbled egg on top. Serves two.

Chickweed

The lowly chickweed (Stellaria media) clambers across the surface of the soil, bearing elliptical leaves and dainty white flowers. It likes cool weather and flourishes in the spring wherever land has been cultivated. An annual and prolific self-seeder, it creates a delicate green haze over moist, fertile ground. Many stems with arrow-shaped leaves grow from a central root and are easily harvested by clipping the stems with fingernails or scissors. Chickweed makes a delightful addition to a spring salad. The flavor is light and lettucey and balances more pungent greens like the dandelion.

Chickweed contains genistein, which is believed to help stop cancerous tumors from growing by inhibiting or stopping the growth of blood vessels that feed the tumor. Genistein is just one of the active compounds in chickweed that is thought to have a medicinal effect.

Chickweed and Dandelion Salad with Creamy
Mustard Dressing

1 cup young dandelion greens, torn in small pieces

1 cup chickweed

1 large crisp apple, diced

Dressing

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

4 Tablespoons cream

2 Tablespoons lemon juice

salt and pepper to taste

1. Wash and spin-dry the dandelion greens and chickweed. Place in a salad bowl.

2. In a small bowl, whisk the mustard, cream, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Pour the dressing over the greens and toss. Add the apple and toss again. Serves four.

Nettles

The folk belief in most European countries is that nettles (Urtica diorica L.) are a "spring tonic" that purifies the blood. In Germany, where much current research on the medicinal properties of plants comes from, nettle leaf tea reportedly increases blood hemoglobin. Diuretic activity has been confirmed by both laboratory studies and a human clinical study. Nettles are also thought to help stimulate blood circulation and have been used to clear chronic skin ailments. Some propose that the nettle might also help prevent Alzheimer’s disease since it contains acetylcholine and choline, both deficient in the brains of people with Alzheimer’s. It also contains serotonin, a mood enhancer along with boron and calcium, important for strong bones.

Nettles are tender and sweet, with a slight peppery bite that gets stronger as the plants get older. Anything you like to do with spinach you can also do with nettles — except eat them raw — because, yes, we are talking about stinging nettles here. But like most good things in life, nettles are worth a little irritation. Just wear gloves when you work with them — or plop them directly from the bag into the pan. Rest assured that the sting is eliminated by cooking.

Pasta with Nettles
and Parmesan

3-4 cups fresh nettles

3 Tablespoons olive oil

3-4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 small hot red pepper

1 pound pasta (traditionally penne, pennette, or rigatoni)

1. Wash the nettles and put in salted boiling water for about seven minutes.

2. While they are cooking, put olive oil, garlic, and hot pepper into a frying pan over medium heat for three to four minutes.

3. Remove the cooked nettles from the boiling water and put into the frying pan with the garlic and pepper. Stir and cook for a few minutes, until excess water has evaporated and the nettles are coated with oil.

4. Use the water the nettles were boiled in to cook the pasta. When pasta is al dente (chewy), drain and toss with the cooked nettles. Serve with fresh grated parmesan. Serves four.

Terra Brockman is the director of The Land Connection Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland and promoting small-scale, diversified, organic agriculture in Illinois. Visit www.thelandconnection.org or call 309-965-2407 to learn how to get involved.

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