Conscious Choice: Blessed Are the Peas-Makers

May 2003

Blessed Are the Peas-Makers

by Terra Brockman

As the May sun shines and gardens get into full swing and our fearless leader makes chilling pronouncements, my thoughts turn to peas and peace. Our best gardener-president, Thomas Jefferson, was fond of both. He often wrote of his many varieties of peas in his garden book and letters. He also relates a charming story.

Jefferson was part of a circle of gardeners who had a gentlemanly annual competition as to who would have the first peas of the season. The winner invited the others to a dinner at which the first peas were given place of honor. To announce the occasion, little notes were rushed around to the circle of friends, "Come tonight — the peas are ready."

The winner of the early pea competition was almost always Mr. George Divers. One year it happened that Jefferson’s peas were ready before he received Mr. Divers’ invitation. His family urged him to quickly send out notes and begin the dinner preparations. "No, say nothing about it," replied Jefferson, "it will be more agreeable to our friend to think that he never fails." We can only sigh and hope for the day when a President of the United States will again be so patient, giving, and endearing.

Peas are native to the areas of the Near East now being pulverized. An archeological dig at Jarmo in northwestern Iraq uncovered peas that were dated at 7000 B.C. making them, along with wheat and barley, the most ancient of cultivated foods. The ancient varieties were pod peas and most of the harvest was dried, stored, and traded or used later.

This spring, you can choose the old-fashioned pod peas, or the newer crisp sugar snap peas or tender, flat snow peas. The "Chinese" snow pea has nothing to do with snow and didn’t originate in China — where it is called hoh laan dau, meaning Holland pea, which is, in fact, where it comes from. From Holland, it went to France and from there throughout Europe, and eventually to China and the Far East, where it is the main garden pea of the region.

Because peas are legumes, they offer many of the nutritional benefits typical of foods in the legume family, such as high protein, high fiber, and low fat. The fresher the pea, the more nutrition is retained, so do like Jefferson and get them from a nearby gardener or farmer, invite your friends over, and celebrate the season!

Fresh Spring Pasta with
Sugar Snap Peas, Asparagus, and Parmesan

1 pound asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 pound bow-tie pasta or linguini

1/2 pound sugar snap peas or snow peas, trimmed

3 Tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup fleshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 1-1/2 ounces)

Additional freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add asparagus and cook until just crisp-tender. Transfer to a bowl of cold water. Cool asparagus slightly and drain.

2. Add pasta to the same pot of hot water. Cook pasta until just barely tender.

3. Add sugar snap peas to the boiling pasta and cook another minute. Add asparagus and heat through — about 30 seconds.

4. Drain hot water and return pasta-vegetable mixture to pot. Add oil and toss to coat. Add 1/2 cup cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, passing additional cheese separately. Serves four.

Sticky Ginger Rice with Peas

1 1/2 cups uncooked medium-grain white rice

3 cups cold water

1 Tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 cup freshly shelled peas

1. Place rice in strainer. Rinse under cold water until water runs clear. Drain well.

2. Transfer rice to heavy medium saucepan. Add three cups cold water. Stir in ginger. Bring water to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until rice is tender, about 12 minutes.

3. Remove from heat. Sprinkle peas over rice (do not stir into rice). Cover and let stand five minutes. Gently stir peas into rice. Season rice lightly with salt. Transfer to bowl and serve. Serves six.

Quick Snow Peas with Lemon Herb Butter

2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh tarragon

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 pound snow peas, trimmed

1. Stir together butter, zest, tarragon, parsley, salt, and pepper.

2. Cook snow peas in a 5-quart pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about 1-1/2 minutes. Drain well.

3. Transfer hot snow peas to a bowl, then add lemon herb butter and toss to coat. Serves six as a side dish.

Terra Brockman is the director of The Land Connection Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland and promoting small-scale, diversified, organic agriculture in Illinois. Visit www.thelandconnection.org or call 309-965-2407 to learn how to get involved.

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