Conscious Choice: Cuke Comeback

June 2003 | Cooking with the Seasons

Cuke Comeback

by Terra Brockman

Cucumbers are one of those often used, yet little-thought-about salad items. We peel them without even thinking about it. If we do think about it, we peel them because the peel is thick and bitter and waxy — and dangerous too. According to a report by the Environmental Working Group, cucumbers are one of the top 12 most pesticide-laden produce items. The wax applied to cucumbers, apples, and many other produce items is made of petroleum oils. Not only does it seal in moisture, thus prolonging shelf life, it also seals in all sorts of pre- and post-harvest pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides.

Luckily we are beginning to have more organic produce items — in the store and in our local farmers’ markets. Organic food is grown without the use of any toxic, petro-chemical based fertilizers or pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides. In addition, local growers can focus on varieties bred for their taste, not their transportability.

The thick-skinned, big-seeded item found in most supermarkets is yet another example of the decline in the quality of all of our commercially-available produce. Todd Wehner, a professor of horticultural science at North Carolina State University, says that of the major commercial varieties grown all over the world today, "all cucumber types have thin-skinned fruits except for the American "slicer," which was bred for a thick skin for good keeping ability and protection during shipping."

What to do? I say bid adieu to the American and embrace the Japanese, Middle-Eastern, English, Dutch, and Armenian cucumbers. You will be amazed at how little they resemble the flavorless, tough skinned varieties you’re used to. Seek them out at farmers’ markets or Asian, Middle Eastern, or other ethnic markets.

Striped Armenian Cucumbers

If you haven’t yet had the opportunity to try the serpentine, striped Armenian cucumber, a splendid treat awaits you. It is a different species altogether from the regular cucumber, grouped botanically with the melon. It was introduced from Armenia into Italy in the 1400s, along with the true cantaloupe, and raised off and on by European horticulturalists since then, according to William Weaver’s Heirloom Vegetable Gardening.

This dark green cucumber has light green longitudinal stripes so that when you slice it, it looks like you’ve carefully scored the skin. As soon as you slice it, the sweet, perfumed aroma begs you to take a bite. And when you do, you won’t be disappointed. The skin is very thin and tender and the flesh is mild and sweet with an almost citrus finish. You could use slices of this cucumber to perfume and brighten mixed drinks, lemonade, or even plain water. Or simply eat it with a light sprinkling of salt.

Japanese Cucumbers

The long, narrow Japanese cucumber has a thin, delicious skin and small seeds. The flavor is rich and slightly earthy with a clean crunch and sweet grassy perfume. These cucumbers are also good in stir-fries and soups (yes, cukes can be cooked!), but let’s start with the classic:

Asian Cucumber Salad

1 Tablespoon sesame seeds

1 pound Japanese cucumbers

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup seasoned rice vinegar

1/4 teaspoon instant dashi granules (available at Asian food stores)

1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil, or to taste

1. In a dry heavy skillet, toast sesame seeds until golden over moderate heat, shaking skillet. Let cool.

2. Cut cucumbers into very thin slices. Sprinkle with salt and drain in a colander 10 minutes.

3. In a bowl stir together vinegar and dashi granules until granules are dissolved. Add cucumber and oil, tossing to coat.

4. Serve at room temperature or chilled, sprinkled with sesame seeds.

Serves four to six.

Chilled Cucumber Mint Soup

3 cucumbers (about 1 pound), chopped

1 cup plain yogurt

2/3 cup sour cream

1/2 teaspoon English-style dry mustard, or to taste

salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves cucumber slices and mint sprigs for garnish

1. In a blender, puree chopped cucumbers, yogurt, sour cream, mustard, and salt and pepper and transfer to a bowl.

2. Chill soup at least six hours or overnight.

3. Stir in finely-diced cucumber and chopped mint and garnish soup with cucumber slices and mint sprigs. Serves six.

June Salad with Tahini Dressing

For dressing

1/4 cup tahini

1/4 cup water

3 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 Tablespoons soy sauce

1 Tablespoon honey

1 garlic clove, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

Blend all dressing ingredients in a blender until smooth.

For salad

1/2 lb romaine or other lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces (makes about 6 cups)

1 bunch radishes (1/2 lb), thinly-sliced (about 1 cup)

1/2 pound cucumber, thinly-sliced

4 scallions, thinly-sliced

1. Toss together all salad ingredients in a large bowl with just enough dressing to coat. Serves four to six people as a starter.

Cool Cucumber Raita

1/2 pound cucumber

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 cups plain, whole-milk yogurt

1 clove garlic, minced

2 Tablespoons fresh coriander or mint leaves, chopped

cayenne or paprika to garnish

1. Cut cucumber lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips, then into thin slices crosswise. Blot off moisture with paper towels.

2. Toast cumin seeds for a few seconds in a small, heavy frying pan over high heat.

3. In a bowl, stir yogurt until it is smooth. Mix it with the cumin, garlic and coriander or mint leaves.

4. Combine mixture with cucumber slivers, sprinkle with cayenne or paprika, and chill before serving. Serves four to six.

Terra Brockman is the director of The Land Connection Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland and promoting small-scale, diversified, organic agriculture in Illinois. Visit www.thelandconnection.org or call 309-965-2407 to learn how to get involved.

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