Conscious Choice: Jane’s

April 2004 | Conscious Dining

Jane’s — Not So Plain

by JoAnn Milivojevic

You know the cliché, a “plain Jane”? It certainly does not apply to Jane’s Restaurant. This is a cute and bustling neighborhoody spot in west Bucktown just underneath the criss-cross of viaducts near Elston and Ashland Avenues.

The Ambience

In typical Bucktown style, this building is small on space but, nonetheless, big in style and friendliness. Built as a residence in the 1920s, it has housed a number of commercial entities before it became Jane’s in 1994. By gutting it, exposing the high vaulted ceiling and adding a couple of skylights, the place feels pleasantly larger.

On the décor front, two floor-to-ceiling windows are dressed with white sheer drapes pinched in the middle creating a relaxed formality. Exposed red brick walls are accented with brightly colored paintings of large fruits — a huge pineapple, a bunch of bananas, a peach-tinged mango — adding cheer and playfulness to the room. The work is of Bucktown artist Audrey Cameron and may not be there when you visit because the paintings change every three months. “We want to give local artists a place to show their work,” explained Julie Greenwalt, executive manager. “We don’t take a cut, we just like showcasing the work on our walls.”

The bar counter seats about eight while the 16 tables, set with flowers and candles, seat another 34. The only negative about sitting at the counter is the near constant passersby crossing behind you. Otherwise, it’s a pleasant place to perch for brunch, although I’d recommend a table for a more relaxed dinner experience. In warmer months, you can also dine al fresco at one of the seven outdoor tables, which can be reserved.

The Menu

Jane’s serves dinner nightly and brunch on the weekend. While brunching on a Saturday, the place was completely filled by noon (they open at 11). The drink de jour appeared not to be coffee or tea, but rather bloody Mary pints ($6) and mimosas ($5). Maybe just as well, as the “standard issue” coffee, was frankly, disappointing. And it was even more so when I noticed a cappuccino machine behind the counter but no mention of espresso on the menu. It was neither advertised nor offered to me when I ordered.

The brunch items leaned more toward lunch than brunch with sandwiches, burgers and salads such as chicken over greens with Asian vegetables and a rice wine, honey-mustard vinaigrette ($11); and pears over greens with bleu cheese, pecans and balsamic vinaigrette ($7). There were also a few egg dishes and decadent choices such as the apricot and apple pancakes ($7). The pancakes were stacked two high, fluffy (made with white flour), with fresh fruit on the side. Underneath was a surprising mound of herbed hash brown potatoes (complete with skins) — delicious though a bit salty. The honeyed butter was a nice surprise. The French toast, homemade from banana nut bread, was at least three inches thick ($7).

The dinner menu is more upscale and the place becomes ever more romantic with twinkling candlelit tables. Appetizers feature half pound black mussels steamed with rice wine and fresh ginger ($11); and a flour tortilla with rare tuna, wasabi, wilted spinach, carrots, shitake mushrooms and a citrus soy sauce ($11). While the menu does change seasonally, a couple signature entrées stay the course year-round. They include the spicy angel hair pasta with chicken, spinach, tomato, chipotle pesto and cotija cheese ($15); and New Orleans-style black grouper, sake-ginger sauce and Asian vegetables ($20). There are always some vegetarian and sometimes even vegan choices on the menu such as grilled vegetables, black beans, brown rice with yellow pepper salsa ($14); and Jane’s goat cheese, vegetable and tofu burrito served with pico de gallo and avocado mousse ($12).

Clean Food Factor

The Web site touts Jane’s as “low fat healthy food” and according to Greenwalt that becomes more so in the summer when the cuisine switches to a lighter fare with an accent on salads and Asian dishes. They use mostly olive oil, occasionally organic produce and nothing is deep- fried. Meat is conventional and fish is generally farm-raised, though that changes somewhat if harvested in season. Smoking is allowed at a couple of tables at the front of the restaurant.

Final Word

A three-course dinner for two will run about $60 plus tax, tip and beverages. Jane’s is popular with celebrators — there were two birthdays while we brunched. And in case you’re wondering, there is no actual Jane. See www.janesrestaurant.com for more info.

Jane’s Restaurant, 1655 W. Cortland Avenue, Chicago, 773-862-5263; Monday through Thursday, 5:00 to 10:00 pm; Friday until 11:00 pm. Weekend brunch from 11:00 am to 2:30 pm.

JoAnn Milivojevic is a Chicago-based writer whose articles on food, fitness, and travel appear in magazines nationwide.

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