Conscious Choice: Thyme Serves Up Urban Escape

June 2004 | Conscious Dining

Thyme Serves Up Urban Escape

by Janine MacLachlan

The outdoor terrace at Thyme is almost magical. Unless you’re an avid eavesdropper (admittedly one of my own favorite guilty pleasures!), you’ll enjoy the spacious feeling of the patio, a dramatic contrast from most diminutive backyards, and exhaust-choked sidewalk cafes we Chicagoans tolerate in search of a dreamy summer breeze. The 150-seat terrace at Thyme feels expansive, laced with illuminated trees and a skyline view, yet separated from the street by a privacy fence that muffles traffic sounds. And while most would be happy to quietly relax al fresco, there’s the added bonus of live jazz on Sundays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

The interior space is striking in a different way, punctuated with original art worthy of study over a cocktail, (particularly the giant wooden hand). Even the chairs contribute to the ambiance with customized slipcovers that change with the season — expect the fresh summer linen until the wool plaid returns in the fall.

Come for the Breeze, Stay for the Food

Chef/owner John Bubala is a chef who follows the seasons and updates his menu frequently. I’ve made special trips to Thyme just to enjoy the roasted beet salad ($9). As a latecomer to beet bliss (after my initial childhood experience of over-boiled mushiness), I now fancy myself a beet connoisseur. Bubala slow roasts his in broth with garlic and thyme for a good two-and-a-half hours, then tops them with feta and scallions, creating an elegantly simple but perfectly balanced starter. When trying to choose between a baby arugula salad ($9) with tart apples, spicy almonds and Roquefort or a goat cheese salad ($9) with mesclun, spiced walnuts and almonds, my dining party chose both and weren’t disappointed.

But Bubala’s signature starter is gulf shrimp ($14) with Tahitian vanilla bean nage, an aromatic seafood broth, red wine syrup, Parmesan and garlic. It’s a dish he’s cultivated and refined over the years to create the best possible combination, and now regular patrons speak up on the rare occasion when another Parmesan is substituted for the grana padana, a specific brand of parmigiano reggiano cheese.

For my money, Thyme’s seafood main courses never disappoint. The Nantucket sea scallops ($29) with sweet corn, mushrooms, asparagus, thyme and corn broth are delicate and rich tasting all at once. And the tilapia ($25) comes on a bed of red bliss potatoes, leeks and lemon thyme nage, another infused broth conveying a depth of flavor without tasting heavy. The meat-and-potatoes types can opt for grilled beef tenderloin tails ($34) with whipped potato and pesto.

Desserts are well worth the indulgence, and Bubala offers drink pairings to elevate the experience. If the weather’s warm, try the lemon and raspberry sorbet ($8) with berry coulis and a glass of Limoncello, an Italian lemon liqueur. On one visit the dessert focus felt positively French with crème brulee ($8), chocolate gateau ($9) and three versions of crèpes — banana with vanilla bean ice cream ($8), apple and cinnamon with caramel sauce and apple cinnamon ice cream ($8) and a version called St. Germain ($7) that featured brandy mousse and toasted pistachios.

Fishing and foraging

Bubala doesn’t rest on his laurels when looking for great ingredients. He knows where the Nantucket sea scallops come from because he’s been on the boat that hoists them over the side. He serves salmon from Alaska, which is considered one of the best-managed fishery programs in the world, and he recently hosted a grass-fed beef tasting for fellow chefs to encourage dialogue about responsible meat production. Bubala’s been spotted on farm visits with his precocious son Jackson, and shops Chicago’s Green City Market, that promotes farmers with sustainable growing practices. Obviously, the man understands that great technique can only get you so far.

The final word

Admittedly, the prices at Thyme fall into the splurge category for most dining budgets. And while a number of wines hover in the $30s and $40s, you can spend up to $150 for that ultra-special occasion. But there’s good news for people seeking a more casual experience: at press time, Bubala was busy opening his “second label” restaurant, Thyme Café, a bistro-style spot in Wicker Park (1540 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-227-1400), where all menu items are less than $20. Both establishments are smoke free.

Thyme Restaurant, 464 N. Halsted Street, Chicago, 312-226-4300. Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11:30 p.m., Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m. Closed Monday. Valet parking available.

Janine MacLachlan is a writer, cooking school owner and food enthusiast whose search for well-raised food is a passion.

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