Conscious Choice: Return of the Greens

September 2008

Return of the Greens

By Terra Brockman

Many people assume that when it’s “back to school,” it’s also “back to the grocery store” and its produce from far-flung corners of the globe. In fact, the local food season in much of the country is not even half over. After the scene-stealers of summer — the tomatoes, sweet-corn and melons — now is the time to enjoy another three months of local flavors, particularly the resurgent autumn greens.

With the cooler weather, a whole host of fall greens burst forth, crisp and flavorful. They include lettuces, arugula, mizuna and many other salad greens, as well as turnip, mustard and other cooking greens.

Put perhaps the most delicious gift of autumn is the Asian greens. They are the original fast food — quick and versatile, with no trimming, peeling or other busy work — and excellent in stir-fries, sautés and soups.

Unlike typical fast foods, they are low in calories and high in fiber. Asian greens are in the crucifer family, the superstars of good-for-you food. Cruciferous plants provide high levels of vitamins A and C, potassium, calcium, folic acid, beta-carotene, zinc, manganese and magnesium.

Start looking for Asian greens now in your local farmer’s market and grocery stores that carry local foods. There are hundreds of varieties, so try as many as you can find and feel free to substitute one type for another in most recipes, including the ones below.

Bok Choy is a versatile vegetable that may be stir fried, sauteed, braised or boiled in soups. It is rich in vitamin C and contains significant amounts of indoles, which appear to lower the risk of various forms of cancer.

Quick Choy Stir-fry with Peanut Oil and Garlic

1 pound bok choy, or a mixture of different choys

2 Tb peanut oil

1 tsp sugar

1 tsp minced garlic

salt or soy sauce to taste

1. Cut stems into one-inch pieces and slice leaves coarsely.

2. Heat wok or heavy frying pan. Pour oil in. Add stems and toss over moderately high heat until somewhat softened, about 2 minutes.

3. Stir in sugar, garlic, salt and soy sauce. Add reserved leaves. Toss another 2 minutes. Serve.

Tah Tsai grows like a flat round plate — only a few inches tall but often over a foot in diameter. The short, dark green stems end in emerald, spoon-shaped leaves. As with the other choys, it is also wonderful lightly sauteed or thrown into soups just before serving.

Sauteed Tah Tsai

2 heads tah tsai (about 1 pound)

1 Tb olive oil

salt and pepper

1. Separate, wash, and dry the tatsoi leaves.

2. In a saute pan, heat a little olive oil and cook the tah tsai for just a few minutes, until the leaves are wilted but the stems are still crisp. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Mei qing choy looks like a miniature bok choy with pale green, rather than white stems. It is succulent and crunchy with a mild mustardy flavor.

Braised Mei Qing Choy

2 Tb (1/4 stick) butter

4 tsp minced garlic

12 mei qing choy

2 cups chicken stock or miso broth

1. Melt butter in heavy large skillet over high heat. Add garlic; sauté one minute.

2. Add mei quing choy and stock; simmer until choy is tender, turning occasionally, about eight minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Terra Brockman is the founder of The Land Connection, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving farmland, training new farmers, and connecting consumers with local food. Visit thelandconnection.org to learn more. She helps her family raise organic fruits and vegetables in central Illinois. Visit henrysfarm.com

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